|email@example.com 01/07/2016 12:13:30
No matter how beautiful your garden is, without a deck it’s missing an integral focal point in terms of both looks and practicality.
A decked area is more than a handy spot for relaxing in the sun; it’s a point of centrality, a beautiful oasis in the middle of your lawn which surrounded by trees, shrubs and flowers, makes what is essentially the sitting room for your outdoor living.
Enjoying your garden from the comfort of an attractive, timber deck allows you to really relax when it comes to eating alfresco. The appearance of your garden is improved and enhanced thanks to the splash of warmth provided by the deck and you can really go to town when it comes to furniture too.
Where to place your deck
If possible, decks are usually best off placed as close to the main access point into the garden from indoors as possible.
This means that in poor weather, when you most want to maintain the deck through cleaning and sweeping it free of leaves and water, you won’t need to traipse across wet grass or slippery paving stones to get to it.
It also means that you’ll find it very convenient when you’re entertaining and want to come in and out with plates or food.
Of course this isn’t always possible and if you need to place your deck in a spot a little further away from the house, this is fine but it’s a good idea to consider a roofed area so that the deck is a little protected rather than marooned in the middle of the garden.
How to make your deck into a glamourous and attractive outdoor living area
Your deck has the potential to act as another room; during the warmer months it can provide that extra space for entertaining or simply somewhere to sit and read.
Choose comfortable outdoor furniture and add extra lighting in the form of solar lanterns and fairy lights. This way you can enjoy the deck even after dark during the warmer months. Perhaps add a chimenea for the chilly Autumn period when you’re not quite ready to hang up your summer hat!
Lawsons stock a wide variety of decking materials, oils and tools; visit Lawsons today to discover more about how a deck could improve your garden.
|firstname.lastname@example.org 01/07/2016 11:47:44
Now summer has arrived it is now time to be thinking about that new patio. Just imagine how proud you will feel when you invite your friends round for that traditional barbeque. Here is our easy to follow guide for forming that perfect area
Tools you will need to lay your garden patio paving
- String / Ranging Line - key to a straight base.
- Rubber Mallet - knock the patio slabs in place without cracking them
- Shovel - clear out and prepare the foundation.
- Spirit Level - you need to make sure the levels are right.
- Trowel for pointing - for the finishing touches.
- Stiff Broom - brush away all the excess mess.
- PPE Personal Protection Equipment such as Goggles and Gloves - safety first!
How to lay a Garden Patio using Decorative Concrete Slabs or Natural Stone Paving
- Make your choice: Lawsons carry a comprehensive range of both Natural Stone and Concrete Paving so your first job is choosing the right range and then ordering, this can be done online or by visiting one of our many branches. Always remember to allow a few extra to allow for any cutting that may be required. Whilst ordering your paving don’t forget to also order your bedding material i.e. M.O.T Type 1 Sub-base, 20mm Ballast, Sharp Sand, Soft Building Sand and Cement.
- Prepare the area: Once you’ve decided on the area, mark out with timber stakes (Site Pegs) and loop a ranging line (string) outlining the area, alternatively use timber boarding nailed to stakes. If you are butting up to your house make sure your finished level is at least 150mm below your damp course (dpc). Dig out to a depth of 150mm and don’t forget to incorporate a slight slope, 1 in 60, away from your property, this will prevent puddles forming.
- Laying the Base: Once you have removed all unrequired material it is now time to create your base foundation. This can be done be using a Ballast and Cement mix (6 parts Ballast to 1 part Cement with just enough water to form a semi dry mix) or Type 1 compacted with a ‘wacker plate’ which can be hired from your local plant hire company. Use enough material to form 75mm finished thickness, if using the Ballast mix tamp down with a length or substantial timber.
- Mortar Bed: Mix a 6:1 (6 parts Sharp Sand and 1 part Cement) laying mortar being careful not to make too wet as slab should be supported without sinking.
- Paving Laying: Set string lines from side to side as a depth guide and ones from back to front as a guide to the fall. Starting in a corner, usually against the property, apply enough laying mortar to cover a slightly larger area of the entire slab, use enough to allow for levelling which is done by tapping down the slab with a Rubber Mallet. Once you are happy with the position and level move onto the next slab, working outwards from the corner, and don’t forget to allow the required joint width between slabs for pointing later. Please allow at least a full day before walking on as this will allow the mortar to harden sufficiently.
- Pointing: Pointing can be done by using one of the readymixed pointing mortars or by a 3:1 (3 parts Sand and 1 part Cement) mix of Soft Building Sand and Cement. Add enough water to form a smooth paste and trowel into the joints taking care not to getting any onto the slab surface, should this occur purchase some mortar stain remover and wash off when dry.
- Finally: Once your pointing has hardened, give a good sweep, step back and admire your perfect patio.
See Our Range Of Patio Supplies Online.
Buy Patio Supplies Online
|email@example.com 01/07/2016 11:42:56
Using decking to create a raised area gives you an ideal place for entertaining your friends & family for those long summer evenings. It does not matter if your garden is on a slope or level, timber decking can offer an attractive area for seating.
Tools you will need for to install your garden decking
- Spirit Level - you need to make sure the levels are right.
- Saw - the decking needs to be cut cleanly so a good saw is important.
- Posthole Digger / Spade - key to making a sturdy base.
- String / Ranging Line - key to a straight base.
- Gloves / Goggles - safety always comes first.
How to Lay Wooden Garden Decking
- Decking area: Work out the area you want to cover with decking and mark it out with pegs and a line making sure all the corners are perfectly square. Clear away all debris, vegetation and grass and level the area as best you can.
- Fixing: If your decking is to be connected to the wall of your house you can attach it using a ‘timber wall plate’ secured with masonry bolts at 400mm intervals. Good practise is to make sure the finished level of the deck is at least 2 brick courses below your house’s damp course level. Dig holes 600mm deep for each of the decking frame posts and concrete them in with Post Fix making sure all the posts are perfectly vertical. It is usual practise for posts to be set in at 1.2m intervals to each other throughout the deck, and the posts around the perimeter are offset to one side to allow for the decking frame’s perimeter joists to be secured. Once all the posts are set fast, the marking out lines and pegs can be removed.
- Weed control: It is a good idea to cover the ground with a weed control fabric at this point. It can be held down with shingle and will aid drainage as well as prevent vegetation growing under your new deck.
- Main framework: Making the decking frame is your next job. Fix timber joists to the outer side of each of the corner posts to create a perimeter frame. Next infill the frame with joists at 400mm centres. Remember the joists run in the opposite direction to the decking.
- Balustrading choice: Balustrading will add that touch of class to your decking so before attaching boards you should make this your next job. Firstly work out spacing of newel posts which are usually set at a maximum of 2.4m apart. The corner ones can be slotted in the gap left when constructing the decking frame and secured with coach screws. You can fix intermediate ones using same method with just one coach screws at this point to allow for adjustment when fitting balustrade panels. Cut your base and top rail to size and drill pilot holes through both base rail and top rail fillet to enable balusters to be secured, usually at 100 to 120mm centres. Fix balusters firstly to the top handrail fillet and then to the base rail using 50/75mm galvanised screws. The balustrade panels can be fixed to the posts by means of 12mm timber dowels glued in making sure to leave a 50mm gap under the base rail.
- Boarding the deck: Now fit the Decking boards. Start from the outer edge and work inwards cutting notches to fit around posts on edge boards and allow the decking boards to cover the outer edge of the frame. Make sure your first board is level with edge of the framework and fix it with two 65mm long decking screws, attaching the decking to each of the frame joists below. Remember to leave at least a 5mm gap between each decking board to allow for timber expansion. If your decking boards meet in length, make sure these butt joints are supported by the decking frame below and stagger these joints throughout the deck to maintain a strong structure.
- Safety: If you have a large gap beneath the deck it is a good idea to fix trellis panels or decking to the perimeter to stop pets and children getting trapped under your platform.
- Treatment: It is always a good idea to give your decking a regular coat of a sealing product or stain, this will ensure it always looks its best throughout the year.
- Planning Permission: Usually decking installations which cover no more than 50 percent of the garden or are no more than 30cm above the ground are sanctioned within permitted development allowances. However if you are unsure we suggest you check with your local planning office.
See Our Range Of Decking Online.
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|firstname.lastname@example.org 01/07/2016 11:39:23
Railway Sleepers come in various sizes in both new and reclaimed, softwood and hardwood. Reclaimed sleepers have generally been used to support railway lines; they have a worn appearance which makes them ideal for that traditional rustic look. New, square edged sleepers in either softwood or hardwood are more suited to a contemporary scheme. Over recent years railway sleepers have seen a revival due to their versatility and ruggedness when used in landscaping projects. They are commonly used to form planters; they act as an edging and are ideal for retaining walls.
Tools you will need for your garden sleepers project
- Spirit Level - you need to make sure the levels are right.
- Hammer - a steel hammer to knock those nails in.
- Screwdriver - a cross head screwdriver is recommended with wood screws.
- Saw - the sleepers are thick so a good saw is important.
- PPE (gloves, goggles) - safety should always come first.
Railway Sleeper Planters
- Forming a Planter or Raised Bed: Once you have worked out location and size, make sure you have enough material to complete the project. Clear the area of all unwanted vegetation and material and then dig a shallow, level trench to allow for bedding material. Usually you would allow 3-4 courses in height and start by bedding the first sleeper onto a semi-dry concrete mix laid in your trench.
- Going Up: Place the next course of sleepers, making sure to overlap joints on corners as well as on straight sections. These can be fixed by means of TimberLOK Heavy Duty Wood Screws which require no predrilling- they can be screwed straight through to the one underneath.
- Alternative Fixing: Sleepers can be fixed by means of galvanised straps; inside corners can be tied by means of “L” shaped ones and straight lengths by vertical flat straps. All come pre drilled so they can easily be screwed to the sleepers.
- Finishing Off: Once you have achieved your required height trim any unwanted ends and plane sharp edges and corners, especially if children are to use the area. Make sure to treat any exposed or cut surfaces with a proprietary wood preservative.
- The Fill: After allowing your finished masterpiece to dry and set, fill with a good quality top soil and get planting! Raised beds are particularly suitable for vegetables or those special centre pieces that give structure to your garden project.
We stock a wide range of reclaimed sleepers!
Buy Wooden Sleepers Online
Railway Sleeper Edging
- Garden Edging: Sleepers are ideal for forming garden edgings as they can be used in a single height, either flat or on their edge. Alternatively, they can be stacked and secured using the method described above for planters.
- Vertical Edging: Another way sleepers can be used is vertically in varying short lengths; for this method you need to dig a 300mm wide trench dug to an appropriate depth. Cut your sleepers to your required length, which could be random for a rustic look. Then mix up some lean mortar, such as 6:1, to be used as a concrete base and haunching. Place at least a 50mm bed of concrete in the bottom of the trench and start inserting the sleepers, haunching them up as you go. Remember to taper the haunching away from the timber.
- The Finish: If laid in a stepped fashion this will add interest to any dull corner of your garden- especially if reclaimed sleepers are used.
We stock a wide range of reclaimed sleepers!
Buy Wooden Sleepers Online
Railway Sleeper Retaining Walls, Terraces & Steps
- Garden Themes: If you have a particular idea for your design, such as breakwater groynes to act as a retaining wall, you would need to follow previous instructions for vertical garden edging with a few additions. It is a good idea to nail a timber batten to the back edge of the sleepers to help keep them in line while the concrete haunching is setting. The concrete setting may take 2-3 days. If you are using sleepers around a pond it is a good idea to use new as opposed to reclaimed sleepers. Reclaimed sleepers have generally been treated with creosote which can be highly toxic to fish.
- Terraces: Railway sleepers are an ideal component for supporting terrace edges. Laid on their side they are a good height for a stepped lawn or patio. They can be secured to short fence posts driven into the ground, thus providing a rigid structure.
- Steps: Due to their height, if sleepers are laid on edge, they make an ideal front for a slab inlay. This pattern can be repeated with each step using different infills, if required, such as stone chippings or natural stone slabs. Make sure to secure all sleepers to timber stakes (driven deep into the ground or concrete) in short lengths of fence post.
We stock a wide range of reclaimed sleepers!
Buy Wooden Sleepers Online
|email@example.com 01/07/2016 11:31:01
If you have a path that’s in regular use – usually to a shed or pergola – it can have an impact on your grass quality. Creating a path is an excellent way to break up your lawn and offer an easy way for people to get around the garden without ruining your lawn. Sleepers are extremely hardwearing and versatile, and perfect for laying garden paths. Unlike gravel paths, you can easily walk on them barefoot and they won’t heat up like stone or concrete pathways.
The best thing about using railway sleepers is that they are easily cut and you don’t really need much expertise – just a strong back and a little inspiration.
A Simple Garden Sleeper Pathway
The simplest sleeper pathways just involve digging and arranging the sleepers where you want them:
- Place the sleepers where you want them to be in your garden – make sure that they’re not too far apart to step from one to the other, but you don’t want them so close together that you might trip up either. Around 300mm apart us usually ideal.
- Mark out their positions using chalk.
- Measure your sleepers and dig deep enough so that the sleeper is mostly submerged with 25mm above ground level.
- Pour 25mm of sand into each hole and tamp it down.
- Slowly place a sleeper into each hole, using a sledge hammer to tap it down and level it out.
As the sleepers settle, they’ll sink down a little further so if they look like they’re protruding a little too much don’t worry – they won’t look like that for long.
Your Pathway Options
If you’d like something a little more sophisticated, you can dig out a larger section of your garden to fill it with gravel or peddles and add sleepers to walk on comfortably within that path. Another option is to dig out the whole area and use sleepers to fill it entirely, like you would with paving. This option would require a lot more effort to stabilise the sleepers since they’re likely to push at the earth around them or move against each other.
The simple pathway above is often the best option for a low maintenance path, especially if you have a smaller garden. If you have a larger area and don’t mind a more intensive project, the possibilities are endless.
|firstname.lastname@example.org 01/07/2016 11:29:49
There’s nothing like a crackling fire on a summer evening to draw friends and family together. A well-built fire pit can extend the amount of time you spend outdoors and improve your garden as a social area. They’re also surprisingly easy to build, even if you’ve never tried bricklaying before.
Always check whether there are any local ordinances or restrictions before you begin a major building or landscaping project.
Dig Your Pit
To begin your fire pit, you need to mark out where you’d like to dig it. It’s important to get in touch with your utility company to find out whether there are any parts of your garden to avoid, and make sure that you have plenty of clearance so that you’re not in danger of setting fire to any trees or a pergola.
A 900mm (3ft) diameter fire pit is an excellent size – it offers a large fire but doesn’t space people too far apart. Once you’ve marked your circle, dig a hole around 200mm (8”) deep and 75-100mm (3-4”) wider than you want the interior of the pit to be.
Pour a Concrete Base
A concrete base will keep the sides of your pit from cracking as the ground moves over time. Stake the forms into the pit that you’ve dug – the first (outer) circle should be 1200mm (4ft) in diameter and the second (inner) circle should be 900mm (3ft) in diameter. This means you have a 300mm (1ft) circle in between to pour the concrete into. Fill the forms halfway and press a rebar ring into the concrete for strength. Finish by filling the forms up to the top and tap the tubes with a club hammer until the concrete is level.
Let the concrete set overnight and remove the forms.
Build Up Inner Firebrick Walls
It’s a good idea to use firebrick or refractory brick to build the inner walls of your fire pit – this is because regular bricks crack at high temperatures. Fire bricks are denser than regular bricks and are kilned to withstand the heat of a fire pit. It’s a more expensive option but it means that your fire pit will last longer. You’ll need around 25 firebricks for a 900mm (3ft) fire pit.
Mortar the bricks with refractory cement, which usually comes pre-mixed. Trowel the cement on in a thin layer and use the tightest joints you can to reduce the amount of air in between the bricks. Remember to place gaps for draw holes at four opposite points around your fire pit. Check that the bricks are level regularly so that you can still adjust while the cement is wet.
Build the Outer Walls
You have a lot more flexibility in the outer wall materials since they won’t be subject to such extreme temperatures. Some people like to build them out of the same material as their paving or other garden walls to make sure that everything matches. You’ll need around 80 standard-sized bricks for a 900mm (3ft) pit.
Level your bricks in between courses by tapping down when necessary. Again, check the level regularly to make adjustments while the mortar is wet.
Finish the Top Lip
To finish your pit, use the same brick as the outer wall to create a cap that covers both the outer and inner walls. This will protect the wall joints from rain and keep any sparks contained within the pit. It also means you’ll have a warm ledge to rest your feet on or put your plate on.
You’ll need to give your brand new fire pit around a week to set before you can light a fire. Make sure to pour a few inches of gravel into the base for drainage, and don’t forget to buy a few marshmallows.
|email@example.com 01/07/2016 11:24:46
Railway sleepers are one of the most popular gardening trends of 2016 – designers and gardeners are using them for everything from creating paths, retaining walls and to building planters.
There is a range of railway sleepers available – they vary in colour, wood, and size, but there are also used and new sleepers on the market so it can be difficult to decide which to buy. That’s why we’ve created this short overview so that you can find out about the main differences between new and used railway sleepers.
New Railway Sleepers
New railway sleepers tend to be made from softwoods such as pine or spruce, but you can also find new oak sleepers at a higher price. Softwood sleepers are not quite as durable as the used, hardwood sleepers but they do have straight edges and no wear, so they’re suitable for projects where you want a crisp edge and consistent sizes or finishes.
You can also choose from a range of colours or treatments. In most instances, you can’t do this with used sleepers since they have their own patina rather than a stained colour.
Because the majority of new sleepers are made from softwoods, they tend to be lighter than used sleepers, so they’re easier to handle. They’re also a little cheaper due to the material.
New oak railway sleepers are usually more expensive than the used ones but are far easier to treat and paint than their used counterparts.
Used Railway Sleepers
Used railway sleepers are the top choice for gardeners and designers who would like to add some character to their project. Since hardwoods are more durable, you’ll find that the majority of used sleepers that are in good condition will be made from oak. While there are some used softwood sleepers on the market, they often have very broken edges and are in much worse condition. If you are looking for a softwood sleeper, it’s best to go for new ones.
Used sleepers are dark or medium brown in colour as generally have been treated with an oil based preservative.. Sizing for used sleepers is only approximate, unlike new sleepers, since they may have been cut decades ago. This means that the sizing may only be very rough and weather has made its own changes to the wood. If you need exact accuracy in your project, softwood sleepers are the best choice again.
Making Your Choice
Sleepers are an excellent material – they’re durable, relatively easy to use (if you don’t mind heavy lifting), and extremely versatile. As with any material, it’s important that it’s suitable for your project. Typically, if you need exact sizing and clean edges, new sleepers are the way to go. If you’d like a little character and the ‘distressed’ look, used sleepers will deliver that for you. Finally, if you’re on a budget and just want to try out an idea, it’s probably best to use new, softwood sleepers so that you can buy everything you need for less.
|firstname.lastname@example.org 01/07/2016 11:23:17
Concrete can be a little intimidating as a material, especially to novice gardeners and DIY enthusiasts, but it’s an extremely versatile material and you may be surprised at how many different things you can make with concrete. You can buy a large bag inexpensively and you know that your finished items will definitely last!
Always remember to wear gloves and a mask when you’re handling concrete and don’t add too much water at the beginning. If you make sure to add water gradually and mix your concrete thoroughly, you’ll have a smooth usable material for your projects.
These spheres are surprisingly delicate for something made out of concrete and really easy to make. They make fantastic plant pots or even candle holders for late summer nights.
If you remember covering balloons in papier mâché in school, the technique for these spheres will be very familiar. All you need to do is cover your ball in Vaseline and drape concrete-covered material over the ball, letting each layer dry before you add the next. This will take a couple of days to complete since you need to stop in between each layer, but finally you can deflate the ball and use some left-over cement to fill in any small cracks you can see.
You can leave your hollow sphere bare or paint it to match the rest of your garden furniture.
Draped Concrete Plant Pots
Or if you have some old tea towels to throw away, you could turn them into these beautiful draped planters. This project is even easier than the spheres and should only take you around a day or two (depending on your drying times). All you need to do is mix your concrete and soak the towel in it. Then drape it over an old bucket (one you don’t mind getting concrete on) and leave it to dry.
You can even pour concrete into it to make a table if you prefer, or turn them upside down to make unusual plant pots.
Unlike the other crafts here, these concrete hands are solid rather than hollow. They’re easily made by filling rubber gloves with concrete and moulding them into the shape you’d like the hands to be (you may need to use string or wire to hold them in place while they dry). Then just cut away the gloves and add your plants.
Images from http://amygreving.blogspot.ca/, http://www.apartmenttherapy.com, http://www.hometalk.com/, and http://infoyoushouldknow.net.
|email@example.com 01/07/2016 11:19:51
Why Use Artificial Grass
Namgrass is an excellent alternative to grass if you’d like a low-maintenance lawn that looks fantastic all year round. There’s no mowing, no watering, and no mud – you can just relax on your pristine lawn and know that even if the kids are out playing on it, you won’t have mud dragged across your carpets.
It’s suitable for both indoor and outdoor use and you can opt for professional installation if you prefer. If you’re a little more hands-on, here are the last instructions you’ll need for your lawn. Once installed, Namgrass comes with a minimum of a 10 year warranty, so you won’t need to work on it again for at least a decade.
How to Install Namgrass
Installing Namgrass is quick and easy. It can take anything from a few hours to around 24 hours, depending on the weather conditions and the size of your lawn. Here’s a video to take you through the process and help you create a lawn that looks perfect in every season.
The first step is to dig up your existing lawn and edge the area – you can use timber, concrete, brick, or even metal edging systems to contain your new lawn. Once that’s been installed, you’ll need to lay the base. If you need to build up a lot, it’s best to use heavy gauge type 1 material, but in most instances you can use fine type 1 – rake and level it before compacting to make sure that you have an even surface.
Once your base is ready, spray it with water to reduce dust and lay a weed membrane over the whole area to prevent weeds from growing through. Then you should roll out your new grass so that the sides overlap the entire area. Leave it for an hour or so to acclimatise and settle.
If you need to join your Namgrass (which is common if with larger gardens), fold the sides together and count in 4 stitches. Cut between the stitch lines and bring both sides together until they’re around 1-2mm apart and the join is invisible from a distance. Once you’re happy with how that looks, put jointing tape shiny side up underneath the join and apply your adhesive. Then carefully fold the grass down onto the tape and walk over it to compress.
Finally, cut around any obstacles and along the edges, taking your time to ensure a good fit. You’ll need to let your lawn settle to again and leave the glue to cure, which will take 2-24 hours depending on the weather.
You’re almost finished now! You just need to add the top sand and brush up the grass to finish. Applying top sand stabilises the grass and makes it more durable – it’s best to use around 5kg of kiln dried sand per square metre. Then just brush up the pile to settle the sand and get your lawn looking its best. The video uses a mechanical brush but you can use a broom if you don’t have one.
Then all you need to do is admire and enjoy your new fuss-free lawn.
|firstname.lastname@example.org 01/07/2016 11:16:33
Raised planters are a fantastic way to separate your flowers or vegetables from the rest of your garden – they offer a way to save space, maintain healthier soil for your plants, and even mean that you don’t need to bend down as much when tending to your garden if you have a bad back.
Fortunately, they’re also extremely simple to make – essentially they’re just boxes with a soil mix added to them. You can choose from a huge number of materials when making them, and you can tailor your soil mix to whatever you’re growing without having to dig up your entire garden.
DIY Raised Garden Beds
While you can buy raised garden planter kits, you don’t necessarily benefit from doing so. You’ll need to work with the materials in the kit – rather than what’s best for your garden – and you’ll be restricted when it comes to size or shape. Starting from scratch doesn’t require much more effort but you’ll get exactly what you want.
First, decide on your size and placement – if you’re putting your planters on a roof terrace or in your garden, you still need to decide where they’re going and how large the planters can be. It’s generally easier to make fewer, large planters than lots of small ones but the arrangement is entirely down to your preferences.
Then you need to find out what materials are best for you and your garden. Our clients have used everything from bricks and paving slabs, through to timber and railway sleepers. Sleepers have the added benefit of not needing cement to put them together – you can just stack your sleepers and fill the box with your soil!
Once you’ve got your measurements and materials, you’ll need to start making your planters! Remember to make them at a comfortable height – if your aim is to look after your garden with minimal bending down, it’s a good idea to build them up to waist height so that you can achieve that.
If you’d like to build using timber, this wikihow will be helpful.
And if you’re building with bricks, this will help you with the technique and steps.
Remember, if you’re using railway sleepers or paving stones, you won’t need to spend as much time putting your planters together since the materials are heavy enough to stack together and stay put.
Finally, you’ll need to decide on a soil mix and add that to your planter. The most expensive option is to use all purchased materials, with varied composts, peat moss, and vermiculite. If you’re building extra tall planters, it’s best to use the ‘lasagne method’ which means that you bulk out the bottom of your planter with leaves, grass clippings, or hay. This bottom layer will eventually turn to compost and give you extremely rich soil without having to pay as much for it. Once that layer is built, add a compostable barrier (like untreated cardboard) to stop your quality soil from moving down too quickly, then add your growing soil mix to the very top 6-12 inches. You’ll notice the soil sinking over the next year or so – all you need to do at that point is add a fresh layer of compost to keep your planter topped up.