Quick answer: Timber is a natural material, so a wooden gate will absorb and release moisture as the weather changes. Small seasonal changes, slight movement and fine surface checks can be normal. A gate that drops at the latch side, drags on the ground, pulls away from its fixings or will not close throughout the year is more likely to have an installation or hardware problem.
Correct fitting gives a timber gate room to move while keeping it supported, level and secure. The right posts, hinges, clearances, bracing and treatment all matter.
Key takeaways
- Timber can expand in damp weather and contract in warm, dry conditions.
- A small surface check is different from a split through a structural joint or rail.
- A dropping latch-side corner usually points to the post, hinges, fixings or brace orientation — not ordinary timber movement alone.
- The bottom of a diagonal brace should point towards the hinge side of a framed, ledged and braced gate.
- Gate posts must be strong, stable and plumb before the gate is hung.
- Use hinges and fixings suitable for the gate’s size and weight, and leave the clearances stated by the gate manufacturer.
- Treat every exposed face, edge, end grain, cut and drilled hole with a compatible exterior finish.
- Do not immediately plane a gate that rubs only during wet weather. Check the installation and allow conditions to change first.
Important: Check the product instructions first
This is general guidance. Always follow the instructions supplied with the gate and ironmongery. Product-specific fitting instructions and warranty conditions take priority.
Why does a timber gate move?
- Timber can expand in damp weather and contract in warm, dry conditions.
- A small surface check is different from a split through a structural joint or rail.
- A dropping latch-side corner usually points to the post, hinges, fixings or brace orientation — not ordinary timber movement alone.
- The bottom of a diagonal brace should point towards the hinge side of a framed, ledged and braced gate.
- Gate posts must be strong, stable and plumb before the gate is hung.
- Use hinges and fixings suitable for the gate’s size and weight, and leave the clearances stated by the gate manufacturer.
- Treat every exposed face, edge, end grain, cut and drilled hole with a compatible exterior finish.
- Do not immediately plane a gate that rubs only during wet weather. Check the installation and allow conditions to change first.
Pro tip: Don’t judge the gate after one wet spell
If a gate becomes slightly tighter only after prolonged rain, check the clearances and installation before removing timber. The gate may ease again as conditions dry.
Start with the symptom
Before adjusting or cutting anything, look at how the gate is behaving. The symptom often gives you the best clue as to whether you are dealing with normal timber movement or a fitting problem.
| What you can see | More likely explanation | What to check first |
|---|---|---|
| The latch-side corner has dropped | Loose or undersized hinges, weak fixings, an unstable post, or incorrect brace orientation | Post plumb, hinge size, every fixing and which side the brace points towards |
| The gate rubs only after prolonged wet weather | Seasonal swelling or insufficient fitting clearance | Side and bottom clearances, drainage, finish coverage and recent weather |
| The gate rubs in all seasons | Opening too tight, post movement, hinge movement or permanent distortion | Measure the opening at several points and check both posts with a level |
| The latch no longer lines up | Post or hinge movement, gate drop, or seasonal movement | Hinge adjustment, post stability and latch position |
| The gate bows towards one side | Uneven sun, shade or moisture exposure; incomplete treatment may contribute | Exposure on both faces and whether all surfaces were treated |
| Fine cracks appear along the grain | Natural surface checking as timber dries | Whether the crack is shallow and stable or passes through a joint or structural member |
| Joints open or hardware pulls out | Installation, loading or structural problem | Stop using the gate if unsafe and ask for technical advice |
Natural movement or an installation fault?
Usually consistent with natural timber behaviour
- Fine surface checks that follow the grain
- Small seasonal changes in board width
- A gate that becomes slightly tighter after sustained wet weather, then eases as conditions dry
- Minor changes in alignment that can be corrected using the adjustment built into suitable hinges
- Gradual colour change from outdoor exposure
More likely to need installation checks
- The unhinged corner drops soon after fitting
- A post is out of plumb or moves when the gate is opened
- Hinges are too small for the gate or are fixed with missing, loose or unsuitable fixings
- The gate was hung from the wrong side of its diagonal brace
- The gate has little or no clearance in the opening
- The bottom of the gate regularly contacts paving, soil or standing water
- Treatment was applied only to the visible face, leaving edges, end grain, cuts or drill holes exposed
The fitting mistake that causes many gates to sag
On a framed, ledged and braced gate, the diagonal brace helps transfer the weight of the gate back towards the hinge side.
The bottom of the brace should point towards the hinges, with the brace rising towards the latch side.
If the gate is hung from the opposite edge, the brace cannot support the gate as intended. The latch-side corner may gradually drop, the latch can move out of alignment and the gate may begin to rub.
Before drilling anything, identify the front and back of the gate, confirm the hinge side and check the fitting instructions for that model.
Pro tip: Check the brace before drilling
On a framed, ledged and braced gate, the bottom of the diagonal brace should point towards the hinge side. Confirm the orientation before fitting any permanent hardware.
How to install a wooden gate correctly
1. Check the gate and the opening before fitting
Confirm the product, size, handing and ironmongery before you start.
Measure the opening at the top, middle and bottom rather than assuming it is square. Check that the ground level and intended swing path will not obstruct the gate.
If the gate has been stored before fitting, keep it supported, off the ground and protected from uneven wetting or strong heat. Follow the manufacturer’s storage instructions.
2. Make the posts do their job
A gate is only as stable as the structure supporting it.
The hinge post must be strong enough for the gate’s size and weight, securely fixed and plumb in both directions. The closing post must also be stable and correctly aligned.
Post size, foundation and setting depth depend on the gate, ground and level of exposure. Use the product instructions or ask your local Lawsons branch for advice rather than relying on one measurement for every job.
Pro tip: Test the post before hanging the gate
A post that feels stable without a gate attached may still move once the gate adds leverage. Make sure the hinge post is secure and plumb before hanging any weight from it.
3. Confirm the hinge side and brace direction
On a framed, ledged and braced design, the bottom of the diagonal brace points to the hinge side.
Lay out the gate and hardware before drilling so you can confirm the orientation.
4. Choose ironmongery for the gate — not just the price
Light pedestrian gates and heavy driveway gates do not require the same hardware.
Hinges must suit the gate’s dimensions, weight and intended use. Use the number, type and length of fixings specified for the hinge, and fix into solid structural timber.
Where seasonal adjustment is expected, suitable adjustable hinges can make future alignment easier. They must remain accessible after installation.
Use top and bottom securing bolts: Tee hinges support the gate, but they should not be relied upon as the only means of restraint. Where appropriate for the gate design, fit suitable securing bolts at the top and bottom so that, when closed, the gate has additional restraint at each corner. This four-point restraint helps the gate remain square and reduces the opportunity for natural timber movement to develop into excessive twisting or warping.
Pro tip: Give the gate four-point restraint
Use suitable top and bottom securing bolts alongside the tee hinges. Together, these provide restraint around the gate when closed and help limit twisting as the timber responds to changing weather conditions.
5. Support the gate while you set the clearances
Use sound wedges or temporary supports to hold the gate level in the opening.
Set even side and bottom clearances in line with the manufacturer’s instructions, remembering that timber will move with moisture.
Fit a small number of fixings first, then check the swing and alignment before installing the remaining fixings.
Do not allow the gate to hang from a partially fitted hinge while you continue the job.
6. Fit the latch, stops and security hardware
With the gate level and moving freely, fit the latch and any stops, bolts or locks.
A stop prevents the gate from swinging too far and placing unnecessary force on hinges or latches.
Check that the gate can open and close without being forced.
7. Protect the whole gate
Pressure treatment helps protect timber against decay and insect attack, but it does not remove the need for weather protection or maintenance.
Apply a compatible exterior finish as directed for the product.
Cover all faces and edges, especially:
- end grain
- the bottom edge
- cut-outs
- drilled holes
Uneven coverage can allow one area to absorb or release moisture faster than another.
Protect the timber: Where recommended for the gate, apply a suitable exterior UV-resistant wood oil. UV oil helps control the rate at which timber absorbs and releases moisture while protecting it from sunlight, reducing the risk of excessive shrinking, swelling and warping. Make sure the timber is suitably dry before treatment and follow the gate supplier's and treatment manufacturer's instructions.
Pro tip: Protect the parts you cannot easily see
End grain, the bottom edge, cuts and drilled holes are easy to overlook. Treat them alongside the visible faces rather than waiting until the gate has been installed.
8. Complete a final movement and safety check
Open and close the gate several times.
Check that:
- Both posts remain still and plumb
- The gate stays level through its swing
- Clearances remain even
- Hinges are fully fixed and secure
- The latch engages without lifting or forcing the gate
- The bottom edge stays clear of paving, soil and standing water
- Adjustable hardware is locked off correctly but remains accessible for maintenance
| Check | What you want to see |
|---|---|
| Posts | Still, secure and plumb in both directions |
| Gate movement | Free movement throughout the full swing |
| Clearances | Even and in line with the manufacturer’s instructions |
| Hinges | Fully fixed with no loose or missing fixings |
| Latch | Engages without lifting or forcing the gate |
| Bottom edge | Clear of paving, soil and standing water |
| Adjustable hardware | Locked correctly but still accessible for future adjustment |
What should you do if a newly fitted gate rubs?
First, do not force it and do not immediately remove timber from the edge.
Work through these checks:
- Check both posts for plumb and movement.
- Check every hinge fixing and confirm the hinges suit the gate.
- Confirm the bottom of the diagonal brace points towards the hinge side.
- Compare the clearance at the hinge side, latch side and bottom.
- Look for recent prolonged rain, strong sun or uneven exposure.
- Check that all surfaces, cuts and holes were treated as required.
- Use the hinge adjustment where the fitted hardware and instructions allow it.
Planing a gate during temporary wet-weather expansion can leave an excessive gap when the timber dries.
If the cause is unclear, take photographs of the full gate, both posts, the hinge side, latch side, brace and clearances before making a permanent alteration.
Pro tip: Photograph it before altering it
If the cause is unclear, photograph the complete gate, posts, brace, hinges, latch and clearances before planing, drilling or making another permanent change.
Why oiling a timber gate matters
Timber naturally absorbs and releases moisture as the weather changes. A suitable exterior wood oil helps moderate that moisture exchange by penetrating the grain rather than simply sitting on the surface.
This can help reduce excessive swelling, shrinking and weather-related movement while also slowing the greying and deterioration caused by UV exposure.
Oil will not prevent every natural feature of timber. Small checks and shakes can still develop as wood dries and weathers, and these are not automatically signs of a fault. However, keeping the timber properly protected can reduce their severity and help the gate remain more stable.
For planed timber gates, choose a modern exterior oil with UV protection that is suitable for the timber species and follow the treatment manufacturer’s instructions.
Pro tip: Treat before exposure where required
If the gate manufacturer specifies oiling before installation, complete the treatment while the timber is clean and suitably dry. Pay particular attention to end grain, cut-outs and drilled holes.
Pressure treated does not mean maintenance-free
Pressure treatment and surface oil perform different jobs.
Pressure treatment is primarily intended to improve resistance to biological decay and insect attack. It does not provide complete protection from rain, sunlight or the normal moisture movement that causes timber to expand and contract.
This means a pressure-treated gate may still benefit from an appropriate exterior finish.
Before applying any treatment:
- make sure the timber is clean and sufficiently dry
- follow any drying period specified for the gate or treatment
- treat fresh cuts and drilled holes
- coat exposed end grain carefully
- cover both faces and edges consistently
- follow the finish manufacturer’s coverage and drying instructions
Avoid treating only one face and leaving the other exposed for an extended period. Uneven moisture protection can encourage uneven movement through the timber.
Softwood and hardwood gates: does the care differ?
The basic principle is the same: both benefit from protection against moisture and UV exposure.
Softwood gates
Softwood generally needs more regular protection because its appearance and moisture content can change quickly when exposed to the weather.
If the gate is pressure treated, allow it to dry sufficiently before applying an oil or other compatible finish.
Hardwood gates
Hardwoods such as oak and iroko are naturally more durable, but they will still weather, change colour and exchange moisture with the environment.
A compatible UV-resistant oil can help retain their appearance and provide additional moisture protection.
Because timber species and finishes behave differently, always check that the chosen treatment is suitable for the specific wood.
How to oil a wooden gate
You do not need to make this complicated. Good preparation and even coverage matter more than rushing the job.
- Clean the timber. Remove dirt, dust, mould and loose surface material.
- Allow it to dry. Never deliberately trap moisture beneath a finish.
- Treat fresh cuts first. Apply suitable preservative where required to cut-outs, drilled holes and exposed timber.
- Test the finish. Try oil on a discreet area or offcut to check the final colour.
- Work with the grain. Apply the oil evenly using a suitable brush.
- Pay attention to end grain. The ends and bottom edges can absorb moisture readily.
- Treat both sides consistently. Avoid leaving one side untreated for a prolonged period.
- Apply additional coats where specified. Allow the correct drying time between coats.
Brush out runs or drips before they dry.
Pro tip: Don't forget the end grain
The tops, bottoms and freshly cut ends of timber can be particularly vulnerable to moisture. Give these areas the same attention as the large visible faces.
How often should you treat a timber gate?
There is no single schedule that suits every gate. Exposure, timber species, orientation and the finish used all affect how quickly protection weathers.
A simple practical check is to put a small amount of water on the surface.
If the water beads, the existing finish is still providing some resistance. If it quickly soaks into the timber, the gate may be ready for maintenance.
Inspect the gate as part of your normal annual garden maintenance and after periods of particularly severe weather.
Before recoating, make sure the timber is clean and dry and follow the treatment manufacturer’s instructions.
| What to check | What to look for | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Timber finish | Water soaking in, fading or exposed dry timber | Clean, dry and re-treat as appropriate |
| Hinges and fixings | Looseness, corrosion, excessive wear or movement | Tighten, adjust or replace suitable components |
| Posts | Movement, leaning or changes after severe weather | Investigate before the problem affects the gate |
| Latch and bolts | Poor alignment, sticking or damaged components | Adjust or replace before forcing the hardware |
| Timber condition | Major cracks, opening joints or persistent distortion | Investigate the cause and seek advice if structural |
| Surface mould | Growth in shaded or damp surroundings | Clean carefully, allow to dry and renew protection if needed |